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Women's History Month

2005 - F is for Fashion

To celebrate Women's History Month, March 2005, the ODU Libraries take a fun look at women's fashion. Visit the Perry Library lobby to view illustrations, books, and other materials that highlight various phases of fashion throughout the years from fancy to formal to futuristic.

Illustrations used in the exhibit were scanned from various library books and from photos provided by Debra Bell.

Dresses, shoes, hats, manikins, fabric, framed pictures, etc were provided by several library staff: Debra Bell, Kathryn Boone, Morel Fry, Martha Higgins, Ann Pettingill, Cynthia Swaine, Crystal Willis

Quotations were taken from various sources listed in the bibliography.

The exhibit was mounted by Martha Higgins, Ann Pettingill, Teresa Keener-Statler, and Karen Vaughan, with assistance from Debra Bell and Kathryn Boone. Contact Karen Vaughan kvaughan@odu.edu with questions or comments.

Materials Used in the Exhibit

"A history of fashion is a history of life: 'To be out of fashion is to be out of life,' said Colley Cibber in the eighteenth century and this, like many semi-ironical statements, is true. The way people dress is a reflection of their times as well as of their class, financial status and of the local weather."
-- From Janey Ironside, Introduction to Fashion: From ancient Egypt to the Present Day

Fashion:  --the prevailing or preferred practice in dress, manners, behavior, or the like, at a given time. --can denote custom or practice that prevails among any group of persons. Usually, however, it specifies such practice that follows the conventions of polite society or mass culture. 
-- From American Heritage Dictionary, 2nd college edition

Fashion: --the cultural construction of the embodied identity.
-- From "Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture" Editorial Policy

"While fashions in furniture and architecture have not generally been perceived as a problem, fashionable dress has been frequently criticized by clergy, philosophers, moralists, and academics for centuries. The condemnations have been numerous and varying; fashionable clothes are attacked for encouraging vanity, loose sexual morality, conspicuous consumption, and effeminacy (in men), and thus blamed for all manner of social breakdown and sexual and gender confusion."
-- From Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion. Detroit, vol. 2, p13

"Designers in the twenty-first century are beginning to adopt new technologies such as body-scanning for custom fit, along with seamless and whole garment knitting technologies, which can manufacture garments with the push of a button. Both are forerunners in a movement toward automation that will once again revolutionize the fashion industry. Just as the sewing machine changed the face of fashion in the past, technology will change it in the future." 
-- From Future of the fashion designer, p.37

"Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months."
--Oscar Wilde (Irish poet, dramatist, and critic, 1854-1900)

"Fashions fade, style is eternal."
--Yves Saint Laurent (French fashion designer, 1936-)

"A good model can advance fashion by ten years."
--Yves Saint Laurent (French fashion designer, 1936-)

"Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening."
--Coco Chanel (French fashion designer, 1883-1971)

"Fashion condemns us to many follies; the greatest is to make ourselves its slave."
--Napoleon Bonaparte (French general, politician, and emperor, 1769-1821)

"Fashion is born by small facts, trends, or even politics, never by trying to make little pleats and furbelows, by trinkets, by clothes easy to copy, or by the shortening or lengthening of a skirt."
--Elsa Schiaparelli (Italian-born French designer, 1896-1973)

"Fashions, after all, are only induced epidemics."
--George Bernard Shaw (Irish dramatist, 1856-1950) from The Doctor's Dilemma

"A woman's dress should be like a barbed-wire fence: serving its purpose without obstructing the view."
--Sophia Loren (Italian actress, 1934-)

"A designer is only as good as the star who wears her clothes."
-- Edith Head (Hollywood Costume designer, 1897-1981)

Ad* Access - Duke University digital collection of "images and database information for over 7,000 advertisements printed in U.S. and Canadian newspapers and magazines between 1911 and 1955"

Best Dressed: 250 Years of Style - Philadelphia Museum of Art Exhibition 

Bissonnette on Costume- A visual dictionary on fashion 

Fashion-era - contains 250 pages of Fashion History, Costume History, Clothing, Fashions and Social History

Fashion Net - The online fashion guide

Fashion Plate Collection - University of Washington Libraries digital collection 

Godey's Lady's Book Online - several complete issues of one of the 19th century's most popular women's magazines, includes fashion illustrations, poetry, engravings, articles. (restricted to ODU users)

History of Costume 1861-1880 

Solemates: The Century in Shoes 

Style.com -- The Online Home of Vogue and W 

Vintage Sewing Electronic Reference Library -- "sewing and fashion books and images to provide primary source reference material for those who recreate clothes or costumes representing a specific era or period of history." Dressmaking books are presented by decade from the 1890s to the 1950s. Not all eras are yet represented.

Exhibit photos

 

Bibliography of Works About Fashion

  • Contemporary Fashion. Reference TT505.A1 C66 2002

  • Costume & fashion. Reference GT720.N6.

  • Encyclopedia of clothing and fashion. Steele, Valerie. Detroit: Thomson, c2005. Reference GT507 .E53 2005.

  • The Fairchild Dictionary Of Fashion. Reference TT503 .C34 2003

  • The illustrated encyclopaedia of costume and fashion 1550-1920. Reference GT580.C37

  • In An Influential Fashion: An Encyclopedia Of Nineteenth-And Twentieth-Century Fashion Designers, 2002. Reference TT505.A1 I5 2002

  • Martin, Richard. The St. James fashion encyclopedia: a survey of style from 1945 to the present. TT505.A1 S7 1997 (4th floor)

  • The Thames And Hudson Dictionary Of Fashion And Fashion Designers. Reference GT507 .O53 1998

  • Who's Who In Fashion. Reference TT505.A1S74 1988.

  • World Of Fashion: People, Places, Resources. Reference TT515.L16 1976

  • WWD Buyer's Guide: Women's Apparels & Accessories Manufacturers. Reference HD9940.W83

  • Baudot, François. Fashion : the twentieth century. TT515 .B38 1999

  • Bigelow, Marybelle S. Fashion in history; apparel in the Western world. Minneapolis, Burgess Pub. Co. [1970]. GT510.B47. (Art Library/FPA 109)

  • Black, J. Anderson. A history of fashion. New York: William Morrow, 1975. GT510.B53 1975.

  • Blum, Stella. Victorian fashions and costumes from Harper's bazar, 1867-1898. New York: Dover Publications, 1974. GT595.B56 1974.

  • Boucher, Francois, b. 1885. 20,000 years of fashion; the history of costume and personal adornment. New York, H. N. Abrams [1967] GT510.B6713 1967a.

  • Breward, Christopher. The culture of fashion: a new history of fashionable dress. Manchester: Manchester University Press, c1995. GT511.B74 1995.

  • Clancy, Deirdre. Costume since 1945: couture, street style, and anti-fashion. New York: Drama Publishers, 1996. GT596.C53 1996.

  • Contini, Mila. Fashion, from ancient Egypt to the present day. New York, Odyssey Press [1965]. GT513.C58

  • Cox, Caroline. I do--: 100 years of wedding fashion. New York: Watson-Guptill, 2002. GT1752 .C69 2002. Oversize

  • Gold, Annalee. One world of fashion. New York : Fairchild Publications, c1987. GT511.G65 1987

  • Howell, Georgina. In Vogue: 75 years of style. London : Conde Nast Books, 1991. TT596.H684 1991.

  • McDowell, Colin. Fashion today. London : Phaidon, 2000. GT596 .M33 2000. (Art Library/FPA 109)

  • New York (City). Mayor's Committee for the Commemoration of the Golden Anniversary of the City of New York. Golden anniversary of fashion, 1898-1948.[New York, Reporter Publications], 1949. GT503.N4.

  • Newman, Cathy. National Geographic fashion. Washington, D.C. : National Geographic, c2001. TT506 .N38 2001. (Art Library/FPA 109)

  • Peacock, John. Fashion accessories: the complete 20th century sourcebook. New York: Thames & Hudson, 2000. GT596 .P395 2000.

  • Ribeiro, Aileen. The gallery of fashion. Princeton, N.J. : Princeton University Press, c2000. GT730 .R52 2000. (Art Library/FPA 109)

  • Robinson, Julian. Fashion in the forties. New York: St. Martin's, 1976. GT596.R66

  • Steele, Valerie. Fifty years of fashion: new look to now; photographs from the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York. GT615 .S74 1997

  • Barnard, Malcolm. Fashion as communication. London : Routledge, 2002. GT511 .B36 2002.

  • Baumgarten, Linda. What clothes reveal: the language of clothing in colonial and federal America: the Colonial Williamsburg Collection Williamsburg, Va.: Colonial Williamsburg Foundation in association with Yale University Press, New Haven, 2002. GT607 .B38 2002.

  • Cavallaro, Dani. Fashioning the frame: boundaries, dress and body. Oxford; New York: Berg, 1998. GT525 .C28 1998.

  • Chic thrills: a fashion reader. Berkeley: University of California Press, c1992. GT520 .C48 1992. (Art Library/FPA 109)

  • Cunningham, Patricia A. and Susan Voso Lab. Dress in American culture. Bowling Green, OH: Bowling Green State University Popular Press, c1993. GT605.D75 1993.

  • Damhorst, Mary Lynn. The meanings of dress. New York, NY: Fairchild Publications, c1999. GT524 .D36 1999.

  • Davis, Fred. Fashion, culture, and identity. Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1992. GT525.D38 1992.

  • Dressed to impress: looking the part. Oxford; New York: Berg, 2001. GT525 .D74 2001.

  • Eicher, Joanne Bubolz. The visible self: global perspectives on dress, culture, and society. New York: Fairchild Publications, c2000. GT511 .E53 2000.

  • Etcoff, Nancy L. Survival of the prettiest: the science of beauty. New York: Anchor Books, [2000], c1999. GT499 .E85 2000.

  • Fashion cultures: theories, explorations, and analysis. London; New York: Routledge, 2000. GT525 .F37 2000.

  • Foster, Helen Bradley. New raiments of self: African American clothing in the antebellum south. Oxford; New York: Berg, 1997. GT617.S68 F576 1997.

  • Hollander, Anne. Feeding the eye: essays. New York: Farrar, Straus, and Giroux, 1999. GT525 .H646 1999.

  • Konig, Rene. A la mode; on the social psychology of fashion. New York, Seabury Press [1974, c1973]. GT521.K6213 1974.

  • Latham, Angela J. Posing a threat: flappers, chorus girls, and other brazen performers of the American 1920s. Hanover, NH: University Press of New England c2000. HQ1420.L38 2000

  • Lee, Michelle. Fashion victim: our love-hate relationship with dressing, shopping, and the cost of style. New York: Broadway Books, 2003. GT524 .L44 2003.

  • Lubell, Cecil. Clothes tell a story; from skin to space suits. New York, Parents' Magazine Press [1971]. GT518.L83.

  • Lurie, Alison. The language of clothes. New York: Random House, c1981. GT525.L87.

  • Martin, Richard. Fashion and surrealism. New York : Rizzoli, 1987. TT507.M375 1987. (Art Library/FPA 109)

  • Moss, Miriam. Street fashion New York: Crestwood House, 1991. GT615 .M67 1991.

  • Newton, Stella Mary. Health, art and reason: dress reformers of the 19th century. London: J. Murray, 1974. GT595.N48.

  • Ossman, Susan. Three faces of beauty: Casablanca, Paris, Cairo. Durham, NC: Duke University Press, 2002. GT499 .O77 2002.

  • Rubinstein, Ruth P. Dress codes: meanings and messages in American culture. Boulder, Colo.: Westview Press, 2001. GT605 .R835 2001.

  • Rudofsky, Bernard. The unfashionable human body. Garden City, N.Y., Anchor Press [c1974]. GT510.R76 1974.

  • Steele, Valerie. Paris fashion: a cultural history. GT887.S74 1988

  • Stern, Radu. Against fashion: clothing as art, 1850-1930. Cambridge, Mass.: MIT Press, c2004. GT523 .S7413 2004.

  • Taylor, John. It's a small, medium and outsize world. London, Evelyn, 1966. GT510.T38.

  • Through the wardrobe: women's relationships with their clothes. Oxford; New York: Berg, 2001. GT525 .T57 2001

  • Wilson, Elizabeth. Adorned in dreams: fashion and modernity. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1987. GT511.W54 1987.

  • Agins, Teri. The end of fashion: how marketing changed the clothing business forever. New York : Quill, 2000. HD9940.A2 A35 2000

  • Blanchard, Tamsin. Fashion & graphics. London: Laurence King; New York: Harper Design International, 2004. GT523 .B53 2004.

  • Colussy, M. Kathleen. Fashion design on computers. Upper Saddle River, N.J.: Prentice Hall, c2001. TT518.C73 2001.

  • Delaunay, Sonia. Sonia Delaunay: art into fashion. New York, N.Y. : G. Braziller, 1986. TT507.D4513 1986. (Art Library/FPA 109)

  • The fashion book. London: Phaidon, 1998. TT503.F37 1998. Oversize.

  • Gan, Stephen. Visionaire's fashion 2001: designers of the new avant-garde. New York, NY: Universe Pub., 1999. TT504.G362 1999. Oversize

  • Halston. . London: Phaidon Press, 2001. TT505.H25 H35 2001. (Art Library/FPA 109)

  • Kismaric, Susan. Fashioning fiction in photography since 1990. New York : Museum of Modern Art, c2004. TR679 .K57 2004. (Art Library/FPA 109)

  • Penn, Irving. Irving Penn regards the work of Issey Miyake: photographs 1975-1998. Boston: Little, Brown, 1999. TT507.M59 P46 1999. (Art Library/FPA 109)

  • Schlachter, Trudy. Millennium mode: fashion forecasts from 40 top designers. New York: Rizzoli; 1999. GT511 .S35 1999. (lobby case 3)

  • Scranton, Philip. Beauty and business : commerce, gender, and culture in modern America. New York: Routledge, 2001. HF3031.B42 2001.

  • Tate, Sharon Lee. Inside fashion design. 5th ed. Upper Saddle River, N.J.: Pearson/Prentice Hall, c2004. TT507.T38 2004.

  • Troy, Nancy J. Couture culture: a study in modern art and fashion. Cambridge, Mass.: MIT Press, c2003. TT507 .T845 2003.

  • Vogt, Peter. Career opportunities in the fashion industry. New York, NY: Ferguson, c2002. TT507.V63 2002.

  • Wilcox, Claire. Radical fashion. London : V&A Publications, 2001. TT502 .R34 2001.(Art Library/FPA 109) .

  • Audrey Gostlin's inside fashion.   from 09/19/1994 to 09/20/1996 in Factiva

  • Fashion theory. from 06/01/2004 to present in Art Full Text

  • Journal of fashion marketing and management. from 01/01/2003 to 1 year ago in ABI/INFORM Global

  • Vogue (New York). from 1910,1914,1917-1919,1956-1981. ODU Library, 2nd floor stacks  TT500.V7

  • WWD (Women's Wear Daily). current 6 months. ODU Library, 2nd floor newspaper shelves HD9940.U3W4

  • HISTORICAL JOURNALS ON MICROFILM (2nd floor)

  • The Designer and the woman's magazine. HQ1101.W67 rl.F64-F67

  • Gallery of fashion. HQ1101.W67 rl.F68

  • Women and Victorian values, 1837-1910. HQ1593.W557